BAY SAINT LOUIS, MISSISSIPPI

I'd never heard of Bay Saint Louis, but when my friend Todd communicated to me on Facebook about a house he had there, I decided to make a visit.  Todd and I worked on a few projects together--he is a hazardous demolition contractor--and kept the lines of communication open.  Todd is a native of New Orleans and went to Stanislaus College Prep in Bay Saint Louis, which is about an hour north and east of New Orleans.

Bay Saint Louis is both a bay and a town, and the town, a historic tourist area, suffered major damage in Hurrcane Katrina.  Both sides of the bay and miles of coastline to the east display the extent of the damage and recovery.  All along the beaches are brand new homes and lots with only foundations and porches remaining; they almost seem to alternate.  Everything is either new or rubble.  All the bridges and even the beaches themselves are new. 

A new home, fortunate to have surviving oak trees.

The house next door--only the foundation and the marble tile flooring remain.

Although the town lost hundreds of historic buildings, it is making a comeback.  Restaurants and shops have been opened.  New and remodeled structures abound, and there is a spirit of hope and an energy about the place.  It's difficult to determine what tourism will be like since it was winter, but the brand new buildings, roads and bridges are ready for the tourists when they come.

Todd and Cheri's house is about five blocks from the beach, in a neighborhood that was not washed away.  They completely gutted their place and added about thirty feet to the back of it, planning to use it as a retirement residence.  They purchased a lot across the street from the beach after Katrina and may live in the existing house while they build their dream house at the beach.  It's a well designed and well appointed three bedroom house, quite a change from a 200 square foot RV.

Since Todd is not yet retired, the house was vacant.  I spent eight pleasant days there, with daily guidance from Todd on what to see, do, and eat.  As usual, I spent a lot of time on my bicycle, getting a feel for the town.

It isn't a large town, so it's possible to enjoy every part of it without a car.  The beach is being rebuilt.  For miles up and down the coast sand has been dredged up from the bay and spread along the beaches, which are clean and white and deep.  Concrete walkways have been built from seven miles east of town all the way to Biloxi, twenty miles west, and you can ride a bike or roller skate forever, just like southern California.  The Gulf of Mexico water isn't as blue as the Florida Atlantic water, but the fishing is better.  Nobody on the beaches this time of year, even on warm days.

A controversial new marina is slated for construction along the beach, with construction beginning.



And--the food.  The highlight, for me, was the buffet dinner at the Silver Slipper Casino.  I sampled crab and shrimp prepared several different ways, gumbo, lobster bisque, and more.  My favorite among them all was the lobster bisque, which I would kill for.  I also sampled several desserts before I found the best ever--funnel cake!

Funnel cake is kind of a cross between a Krispy Kreme donut and a very light waffle.  It is a light dough poured in concentric circles into a ring shaped bottomless container in a vat of hot oil.  When it comes together and turns a golden brown it is lifted onto a plate and coated with powdered sugar.  After that, you add whatever toppings you want--strawberries, blueberries, cherries, melted chocolate, ice cream, sprinkles--whatever--and top it off with whipped cream.  Best dessert ever, better than creme brulee.

Of course, po' boys, fish of all kinds, Cajun food--it's all available in Bay Saint Louis.  With the climate and the cuisine it's no wonder Mississippians tend to be overweight.

I took a trip along the beach towards Biloxi to visit the last residence of Jefferson Davis, the first and only president of the Confederacy.  The Civil War, which was of course about slavery, was ostensibly fought for States Rights.  The southern states averred that the federal government did not have the power to dictate policy contrary to what they considered their own best interests.  Consequently, poor Mr. Davis did not have the power to control the war effort as well as did Mr. Lincoln up north, and so he lost the war and was in many quarters saddled with the blame.  It was a no-win situation.

Nice place he had, though.  Very Confederate to this day, with flags, uniforms, artifacts, and mementoes of southern pride.  Seven of the eight buildings on the property were washed away in the hurricane and are being rebuilt.

All the miles between Bay Saint Louis and Davis's place conformed to the Katrina model--new beaches and new houses mixed with the foundations of those yet to be rebuilt.  Virtually everything along the beach was destroyed.

It was interesting to see how the new construction took into account what had happened during Katrina.  All the structures since are built either on high ground or on high stilts, and they are all built to withstand wind and water.  Of course, every time a natural disaster strikes the new construction purports to be able to withstand the next disaster; sometimes it is, and sometimes it isn't.

I took the opportunity to drive into New Orleans in Todd's big black diesel pickup.  I think my RV gets better mileage, but nobody got in my way.  I went to the World War II museum, a first class venue, and got the chance to see Higgins boats, tanks, airplanes, weapons, ordnance, and kit.  The museum also features a 48 minute film narrated byTom Hanks, in a theatre that accompanies the film with lighting, smoke, vibration, and raised/lowered pieces that complement the film throughout. 

There were also historical re-enactments of World War II soldiers and camps, done by veterans with military history in mind, outside the museum.

I also went (of course) to the French Quarter, where I saw a wedding party parading through the streets with a brass band accompanying them.  Even though it was still daylight in the Quarter it was abuzz with music and drinking.  There may have been a little extra energy in the air since Mardi Gras is approaching.

Last event in Bay Saint Louis was the best.  An old barn-like building built in the 1920's as the 100 Men DBA Hall, and is being restored to continue its use as a performance venue for Mississippi Blues.  I got the chance to see Little Freddie King and his band.  They were so good, so tight, that I was dancing in the aisle, to the extent that a black woman, member of a party of three professional looking black couples, dragged me up to the dance floor in front of the stage.  I just threw inhibition to the wind and boogied to the best rhythm I've ever heard.  Had a plate of ribs, corn, and beans as well.  Great night.

One of the best things about the town is the train.  Freight trains bisect the town a dozen times a day on two parallel tracks, and since there is only one crossing gate in town the trains blow their whistles non-stop as they roll through town without slowing down.  Nothing better than a freight train, rumbling and whistling through the night half a block away, except standing five feet from one blowing by at forty miles an hour.

After eight busy days it was time to leave, but Todd invited me to return in February for Mardi Gras.  Austin is flying in to Tampa to join me and we'll race the 600+ miles in one day to spend a long weekend there.

NEXT: TAMPA/SAINT PETERSBURG